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Antique Coffee Grinder Circa 1900 |
A GENTLEMAN OPINES ON COFFEE AS SERVED IN THE MAN-CAVE:
A Taste For
Bitter Rethinks A Sweet-Coffee Culture…
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Antique Cigar Vending Machine Cica 1890 |
Whilst enjoying the morning and my coffee the serenity of my
garden and the heady smoke of my cigar whirling about me moved me to contemplate
the gentlemanly virtues of coffee. And having to ask myself what exactly that
might mean how I might quantify and embody each manly ground became its own
self-prophesized answer. So I ran with it enjoying how handsomely the flora, the coffee and the cigar welcomed
me into the new day… it was kismet. I listened as is my habit while the morning
waxed… the industrial bustle which quickly began to overrun the outside-world was
still buffered by my quiet little street and of course by my little garden. The
only clamour was that of the many animals and insects awakening all around me. By
these I mean the bees, the birds, the crickets and grasshoppers, the spiders, mantises and the ants… all of them getting it
in early as is their custom... In my garden little else goes on save the
incessant weeding, raking and pruning, planting and such including the
pollinating, feeding, playing and mating of the thousands of critters populating
every corner. The garden finite as it is… remains quite a realm of its own. The
insects, animals and I have learned to quietly share its small boundaries. They tolerate me in our little garden unaware
perhaps of how I have slowly designed and built its handsomely-vegetated world just
for them. It is a home to all of us… and a refuge too... My coffee and cigar
are but incidental ornaments in the landscape… transient modifiers of my own
garden-self… seasoning the lens through which I experience it at different
times of the night and day... Likewise, my garden and its inhabitants creatures
and plants alike who remain there in my absence must surely wonder at my comings
and goings and I wonder if they remark of my prudent pufferations! The term
“pufferation” is the most gentlemanly coinage of a locally famous cigar aficionado
by the name of Van Landingham. It immediately struck me as the personification
of the entire experience of inhaling, exhaling and the olfactory enjoyment of a
fine cigars bouquet and smoke-aroma.
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Antique Coffee/Spice Grinder Circa 1790 |
You might say I created a garden for critters, coffee and
cigars but it was not originally conceived that way. That is how things turned
out. I built the garden as a meditative space. It was intended to force the eye
to look inward excluding the outside. So I moved forward evolving it as an
ornamental garden intended to evoke the soul as a contemplative place,
somewhere to escape the rat-race of the world… someplace to relax. Fewer twenty-first
century men have or seek such places and many who do underutilize them. So I’ve
kept my garden as an active landscape year round… no less full of color and
life in winter than in summer. It is intended to be a place for contemplative resolve.
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Antique Mahogany Cigar Vending Machine Late 1800's |
I only drink coffee and smoke my cigar or tobacco pipe when
I have time to relax. These pastimes define a special place in my day and
psyche. Over the course of time my garden included places where I could enjoy
coffee and cigars. Both have an earthy bitterness… (my coffee and my cigar ),
and a manliness that makes my DNA whistle and humm because it is an extension
of what you might call “man-cave realness”. That is to say when a gentleman
such as me takes his coffee the experience speaks from the depths of his manhood.
So I opine on coffee this morning hoping
to convey something of solid relevance to the men who read my writings. It is
not such a tall glass to fill and I intend to flood the entire vessel. The whole
point is to celebrate manhood by exploring its many rivers. By mapping them
right down to the smallest water molecule and pebble. I welcome you to travel
with me along this small rivulet so feel free to light up your cigar, pour a
coffee, a draught of whiskey… a spirit of choice and let us gentlemen proceed…
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Antique Cigar Humidor Circa 1850 |
Thankfully there are still men who quietly understand and enjoy
being men and who continue to cultivate the gentlemanly arts. It is healthy to
define ones manhood as “other than" womanhood. All the more reason why men
need time to just do man-stuff, to think and say man-things, to inflect their
entire psychical experience and explicate it in the vernacular of manliness. Gentlemen
of these times will be challenged to rethink the culture of masculinity on
every level and that may be a very good thing indeed because I am certain it is
long overdue topic to be rethought. I like to periodically cut away the fluff and get down to the
nitty-gritty. Manhood can be obscured by a plethora of decorative themes. A gentleman
understands where manhood truly begins and ends. He does not parade mahood as a
symbolic statement… but exudes it as a comfortably intrinsic energy… what we
see (or imagine that we see) is flux. For those men who like myself truly enjoy
the art of being a man nothing about manhood can be too deep or taboo to
explore. This means that nothing is too sacred to be revised or discarded. After
all being proper gentlemen is what we do so it must be correct! Interestingly the
evolving culture of cigars and even coffee have radically redefined
long-established mores and folkways associated with manliness. Twenty-first
century men who cultivate the gentlemanly arts must contemplate them however
arbitrary or trite they may appear. There will always be some cultural backlash
from men poised to resist natural change.
But let us ask if it is ethical to perpetuate a genuinely obsolete version of gender-specific
culture. And let us consider the wisdom and prudence of resistance in todays obsessively
paranoid and myopic world? There are those happy and care-free times when men
may socialize alone and with the blessings of our womenfolk. O' the hythe of the
gentleman’s coffee and cigar lounge which may never be his alone! Indeed, I
believe there is judicial tolerance for the man cave. We gentlemen have a
unique and civilised set of folkways with which to smoke our tobacco pipes, take
coffee, smoke cigars, converse, etc., and there is certainly room enough in
this wide world to celebrate those traditions amidst those of our kind... that
is the menfolk…
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Antique Wall-Mounted Coffee Grinder Circa 1890 |
Coffee is an ancient libation the root traditions of which
have spread from Ethiopia to every corner of the planet. However, in the late
twentieth-century many American men have orphaned coffee taken black or with
plain cream adopting a heavily marketed litter of artificially sweetened
and modified designer coffees. It could
be argued that the gentrification of coffee was in fact a feminization of
whatever manly virtues it may have been believed to possess but that argument
is not for me to undertake. I should be remiss to ignore it. I just like
strong, bitter coffee and that is what I intend to discuss. Gone are the days of
the clear, watery stuff found lurking in an institutional pyrex beaker… or the
thick, black acidic brew of the espresso machine. America has re-invented those
primeval draughts I lovingly called coffee and I think with no semblance to its
former self save in name. But what exactly did and does this mean within the
context of late twentieth-century and early twenty-first century American
culture and more specifically how might it have impacted the gentlemanly arts? Coffee
has become nothing less than an entire
social movement and it seems that I had reached that conclusion some 30 years ago.
Looking back now and forward again I find clear confirmation. I can say with
complete confidence that I prefer coffee as it was; simple, clean, rustically
manly and uncomplicated.
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Antique Coffee Grinder |
Having planted that seed I digress now because I must…
because every great storyteller does so in order to give his story something of
a soul…
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Antique Tobacco Pipe |
Three decades ago I was just beginning to seriously explore traditional
southern Black American cuisine. It was a bittersweet revelation. Ironically while
soul food evolved as a direct product of oppression its reprise has always been
its undeniably good taste. Soul Food fueled the hearts of folk who learned to cook
with what little they were given combined with what the earth freely afforded, what
others did not want, or did not want to know about… That was the culinary
science I sought to master. I learned that real soul food was not vegan, not gluten free and not
militantly vegetarian, anti-pork and anti-beef. It was none of those things. Soul food was about survival! It taught the
lesson that something intended or expected to be distasteful, (actually and
ideologically), could be made good… I discovered a culinary tradition that many
modern Black Americans increasingly frowned upon rather than preserve as a sacred
rite of passage. The point being that as with soul food in order to truly understand
the nature of coffee I had to divest of its politicizations and prettifications
going directly to its source.
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Antique Coffee Bean Roaster |
Coffee will probably never be the same as it was because it
is no longer just about the redeeming qualities of a burnt and boiled bean. Americans
did not know in the late 1990’s that they were watching the last essence of
twentieth-century culture evanesce… it was the end of an era of rustic coffee and
perhaps of soul food too…
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Antique Tobacco Pipe |
I watched the transmogrification of coffee from a bitter but
practical, morning or late-night concoction to a frothy, sugary libation
scarcely resembling the thing it had been. It was the victim of the infamous postmodern
genre, “The Makeover”!. Had I known I should have emerged therewith as the
self-proclaimed high priest and savior of the venerable brew. My followers
would cultivate the arts of coffeeism elevating it to a gentlemanly art form adapted
to cure the manic pace of modernity. Coffee served at the altar of my virtually-conceived
chapel of earthly culinary delights would
be dark, heavy, bitter, pleasantly nutty and marvelously acidic. Votaries of
the coffee bean coffeeists practicing coffeeism would either consume it in its
raw visceral form perhaps with chicory or cleverly cut with a rich, decadent dose
of heavy dairy cream. My followers and I should have then saved the rustic
manliness of coffee from an unseemly decoration. For to sweeten the masculine earthiness of a
strong, aromatic brew (other than with half a cube of sugar) is in my opinion….
sheer culinary villainy! I say this without malice, with an understanding
towards change but a fealty to simplicity.
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Antique Cigar Humidor Circa 1840 |
I have always imagined coffee as a distinctly manly drink. Its
dark-woodsy colour, its intensely aggressive flavour, and its density do not at
all suggest anything but a truly masculine libation nearly tantamount to a
beefy-dark beer save for the alcohol. I acknowledge that my attachment of masculine
characteristics to a mere drink is unscientific, fanciful, completely arbitrary…
an artistic interpretation licensed thereby… its intent being to explore its
aesthetic attributes from a masculine persuasion…
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Antique Coffee Grinder |
So this article might as easily be entitled, “Serving Coffee
In The Man-Cave". As a matter of fact this will be its subtitle. We gentlemen
do have our own etiquette now and to redefine where lines have blurred it let
it serve as a creative threshold not as a bible…
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Coffee Grinder Circa 1700's |
For that reason I have always aspired to perfect a coffee
that is markedly over-burnt having been reduced from multiple
brewing’s for a patently robust flavour and
aroma. Yes… this manly etiquette for making coffee preempts the mere
consumption of coffee- flavored water or o’er-sweetened confections all of
which effectively neutralize the manly taste I crave…
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Antique Tobacco Pipe |
Burning the bean adds a distinct
smokiness as when food is grilled over an open
fire or like a good full-bodied cigar. One must not be afraid to scorch the bean
a second, third or sixth time as it brews for this amplifies its bitterness. In
many cultures there are foods and drink beloved for their inherent bitterness
and coffee happens to be one of them. If one’s point at taking coffee is to be
awakened then why not shock ones consciousness into sublime wakefulness through
sippings of an ancient and bitter brew.
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Antique Cigar Vending Machine |
Multiple brewing’s of a strong, regional cache of exquisite
coffee beans enriches the flavor, by thickening its texture and amplifying its intensity.
For that reason I re-brew my coffee at least 6 times using an antique
percolator thereby releasing every drop of the essential oils and minerals
locked into the crushed beans.
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Antique Wall Mounted Coffee Grinder Late 1800's |
Concentrating the essential oils of the coffee bean releases
its emboldened olfaction. I cannot describe the heady sensation I get whilst
inhaling that heavy, cloud of flavour that fills any room in which a proper pot
of coffee is being brewed.
I raise my bitter cup of coffee to you gentlemen encouraging
a revival of the ancient ways. Next time take your coffee black or with fresh,
heavy dairy cream… relish each manly draught and be redeemed!
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Antique Tobacco Pipe |
Written by Bigdaddy Blues
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Antique Coffee Grinder |